Travel Guide to Lamu Kenya – Everything you need to know!

There are a few places you visit that can’t be described through pictures, videos or words, they can only be experienced. That is Lamu. It’s a quaint seaside town in Kenya off the coast of Mombasa. Visiting this picturesque town was on my bucket list for so many years and when I finally visited, it exceeded all my expectations.

This town radiates so much beauty and it still holds such a large piece of my heart 2 years after my first visit. From the deep and rich golden sunrises and sunsets to the white sand beaches, glistening blue waters, Swahili-style homes, welcoming people and beautifully adorned terraces, there is truly no place like Lamu.

In this post, I will give you all the information you need to plan an unforgettable trip. This is your travel guide to Lamu, Kenya.

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Travel guide to Lamu, Kenya – How to get there

Lamu is pretty remote so to access it, you need to be within Kenya.

By Flight

You can find flights starting from $80 return to Lamu from Nairobi, Malindi or Mombasa on any of the local airlines – Skywards Express, Jambojet and Safarilink. In Nairobi, these airlines fly out of the local (and smaller) Wilson Airport (WIL) and the International Jomo Kenyatta Airport (NBO) daily.

I flew with Skywards Express on my Lamu trip and they only allow 15kg for checked-in luggage, so keep this in mind when packing. If you’re departing from Nairobi, there is usually a stopover in Mombasa or Malindi so the flights are usually longer (about 1 hour 25 minutes from Nairobi to Lamu). However, if you depart from Mombasa or Malindi the flight takes 40 minutes and 25 minutes respectively.

By Bus

If you are not pressed for time and are on a budget, you can take a bus from Mombasa or Malindi to Lamu for between 1000 – 1500 ksh. I cannot personally vouch for this route however I know flying isn’t an option for everyone as the prices of tickets might not always be pocket-friendly.

By bus it should take about 5 hours however, the roads to Lamu are muddy and rough so the journey can take up to 10 hours so keep that in mind.

All the counties in Kenya are very well connected, and there are numerous travel options whether you want to go by plane, train or bus.

Travel guide to Lamu, Kenya – The best time to visit

The weather

The weather in Lamu is great all year round but to truly enjoy the charm of this seaside town, aim to visit during the dry seasons from July – October and January to February. November is the beginning of the short rainy season in Kenya so expect some rains. I spent 4 days and 3 nights in Lamu in November and the temperature was about 38°C throughout without rain.

Festivals

Lamu is known as Kenya’s “Island of Festivals” so if you want to visit Lamu during one of its festivals, here is a list of them:

• Lamu Cultural Festival – Last week of November

This is a 3-day festival that gives visitors a taste of Swahili life. The festival includes activities like dhow sailing races, donkey races, traditional henna paintings, poetry readings, music performances and competitive Bao games.

• Shela Hat Contest – Mid-February

The Shela Hat Contest takes place on the beach in front of the famous Peponi Hotel. Locals show off their creativity by parading unique hand-crafted sun hats. The sun hats are crafted using materials found all over the island like coral, shells, palm leaves, water pipes, or even pieces of plastic found on the beach.

• Lamu Art Festival – End of February (every uneven year)

Over 40 African and European artists and musicians are invited to the island for the festival. The artists are spread all over Lamu Island for 3 weeks working on their upcoming pieces before the festival’s final weekend. Their work is then displayed at the Lamu Fort celebrating the artworks of paintings, sculptures, photographs and installations of the African and European participants. The art exhibition will be followed by a great performance of Kenyan musicians in Lamu Town Square and at “Diamond Beach Village” on Manda Island.

• Lamu Yoga Festival – October/ November & March

This is a 4-day festival and activities include numerous yoga workshops and meditations, a chance to taste the Swahili cuisine, sail on a dhow and interact with yogis from all around the world. The festival activities are spread over Manda Island, Lamu Old Town and Shela Village.

• Dhow racing – throughout the year

The Lamu Dhow Races usually take place on New Year’s Day, at Easter, and during August and also accompany the many other annually scheduled Lamu Festivals as their final celebration. Different teams from the entire Lamu Archipelago get together to compete against each other.

• Maulidi Festival – 3rd month of the Muslim calendar

This is a four-day Islamic festival to celebrate the birth of Prophet Mohammed.

Read other travel guides:

• The Ultimate Kenya Travel Guide
• Mole National Park – Everything you need to know
• Ultimate Ghana Travel Guide
• A Weekend Guide to Benin Republic

Travel guide to Lamu, Kenya – Transportation

In Lamu, there are 4 cars – 3 of which belong to business people and 1 to the county commissioner – 4 tractors for garbage collection, a few Tuk Tuk’s which serve as ambulances and a handful of Boda Boda (Motorcycles) used as personal vehicles.

The main forms of transportation are donkeys, walking, handcarts and boats and during this tour, you get to see the “real Lamu”. The boats cost 130 shillings upwards per trip.

What to wear in Lamu?

Lamu is a predominantly Muslim town (80% of the population is Muslim and 20% Christian) so cover up your chest and shoulders and don’t expose too much skin to be respectful.

Travel guide to Lamu, Kenya – Where to stay

Kenya has multiple accommodation options from guest houses and Airbnb’s to villas and hotels all for different budgets and Lamu has some of the best, here are 3 of them.

1. Tunusuru Villa – Shela, Lamu

Tunusuru House is a unique villa nestled in the centre of Shela village. Shela is where most hotels and villas are located so it welcomes most of the tourists and visitors to Lamu.

The Villa

Rarely am I left speechless, but this villa left me without any words; there are 4 floors, including the rooftop, each with its beautiful terrace with views of dhows sailing in the Indian Ocean. This stay was my favourite of the whole Kenya trip and for good reason. The villa has 5 rooms, 7 bathrooms and a pool.

The Lamu villas are all made of coral and other materials, which sets them apart from any other accommodation I have stayed in. Their open-air design and use of coral help keep the temperature inside the homes cool as outside temperatures can reach as high as 38 degrees Celsius.

The Food & Drink

The villa has an in-house chef, Robert who can make all your meals for an extra fee of $3-6 (300-600 shillings) per meal. The cuisine in Lamu is heavily influenced by Indian cuisine so we ate a lot of fruits, curries (fish and chicken) and samosas and drank tamarind juice and chai tea. Robert always cooks up a storm so I would 100% recommend him.

Other than meals prepared by the chef, there are small affordable restaurants around the island and hotels like Peponi and Majlis with restaurants open to the public. These hotel restaurants are quite costly and meals range from $25 – $50 per meal.

The Cost

This villa costs $500 per night (depending on the month you go) and you can only book it on Airbnb.

I HIGHLY recommend staying here if you’re ever in Lamu; the service, amenities, aesthetics, and, most importantly, the views are forever engrained in my mind.

2. Peponi Hotel

Peponi Hotel is a famous and well-designed boutique hotel which sits in the centre of Shela, Lamu. With its central location, it has access to Shela’s pristine beaches, Shela town and Lamu old town which makes it a prime accommodation in Lamu.

3. The Majlis Resort, Lamu

This is one of the best resorts in the Lamu archipelago located on Manda Island opposite Lamu itself. The resort is only accessible by boat and it’s a truly stunning property with Swahili and Italian-inspired architecture. If staying here overnight is above your budget, you can spend the day here, and eat at their restaurant and spend time by the beachfront swimming in the sea as dhows sail by you.

In addition, activities offered by the resort include; cycling, windsurfing and canoeing.

Where to eat in Lamu

1. Peponi Hotel restaurant: if you don’t eat elsewhere, you must eat here. The food is amazing. The restaurant is in front of the beach so the ambience at night is incredible. The cost of an average dinner is about $25.
2. Majlis Hotel restaurant: Majlis Hotel is a bucket list stay in Lamu so if you don’t stay here, eating here is the next best thing. The average cost of lunch here is $25.
3. Your villa: most guesthouses and villas have in-house chefs who charge $3-$6 (300-600 shillings) per meal.

Travel guide to Lamu, Kenya – Top things to do

Nothing

The slow pace of life in Lamu makes this the perfect relaxing escape. Even though this Island isn’t short on activities, doing nothing is one of the best things you can do. Imagine spending your days sitting on the beach, people-watching.

Lamu Old Town Tour

Lamu Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it’s where all the locals in Lamu live. It’s rich in history and culture, the only town I’ve come across that has a donkey hospital and it’s home to many talented artisans.

With a population of 15,000, most people are woodcarvers, fishermen, merchants and tour guides. When on your tour, you cannot skip a visit to the town square, coffee shop, jewellery store to buy some silver and the donkey hospital where sick and injured donkeys are nursed back to health.

Sunset Dhow Cruise

This experience for me was a long-time dream fulfilled. It was everything and more, from sitting in a traditional dhow, dancing to music, to feeling the wind on my face and watching the UNREAL sunset while we cruised for 2 hours around Lamu, giving us enough time to take in this idyllic town.

This experience costs about $250 or 5k – 10k shillings for up to 12 people.

Full-day cruise to Manda Island

Eating an authentic Swahili meal on a dhow while cruising along the Indian Ocean needs to be on your bucket list for your next trip to Lamu, Kenya. Book a full-day dhow cruise to Manda Toto, a small island off Manda Bay part of the Lamu archipelago for 7 hours from 9 am to 4 pm.

Once you dock in Manda Toto, swim in the Indian Ocean and frolic on the sandbank during low tide. At the same time, wait for the captain to cook you a traditional meal of grilled fish, tomato curry, coconut rice and salad on the dhow, then enjoy it with a view of the Indian Ocean.

This cruise for 10 people usually costs between $400 – $600 depending on who you book with.

Sunset at a beach resort

Have lunch at Majlis Resort and swim in the ocean while the sun sets, surrounded by dhows. It’s truly magical.

Get a henna tattoo

Get henna done by Zainab, one of the many henna tattoo artists in Lamu. She is very well known and quite persistent and the best thing is she will come to your villa or hotel at any time and do your henna. She also offers massages as well which I’ve been told is very relaxing.

3 Days in Lamu – my exact itinerary

• Day 1: Arrive in Lamu and take a Sunset Dhow Cruise

It’s time to catch your flight to the beautiful island of Lamu! Head to Nairobi Wilson Airport and fly to the Kenyan Coast. Take a water taxi to your villa in Shela and spend the rest of your afternoon relaxing. In the evening, spend 2-hours cruising on a dhow during sunset and sail around the island.

• Day 2: Full-Day Cruise to Manda Island

Eat your breakfast made by your villa chef, and go on a full-day dhow cruise to Manda Island, a small island beside Lamu. Spend your afternoon swimming in the Indian Ocean, and for lunch, eat the traditional Swahili lunch of white rice, grilled fish, vegetable curry, chapati and salad prepared on the dhow by the captain.

In the evening, take a stroll and get to know Shela and its people.

• Day 3: Lamu Old Town Tour, Majlis & Peponi

Take advantage of your last full day in Lamu and tour Old Lamu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, learn its rich history and visit the donkey hospital.

Have lunch at Majlis Resort and swim in the ocean while the sun sets, surrounded by dhows. It’s truly magical. For dinner, walk 3 minutes from your villa (Tunusuru House) to Peponi restaurant.

8 things to know before visiting Lamu

1. It’s a Muslim town so make sure you cover your arms and chest.
2. There are more cats here than humans, about 10,000.
3. If you get lost in the alleyways, follow the water to find your way to the waterfront
4. There are very few banks and ATMs in Lamu and they are not easily accessible to tourists so if you can, withdraw all the cash you may need before coming to Lamu
5. To get around the island you can take a boat, walk or use a cart/ donkey. There are no cars.
6. All houses have rooftop terraces.
7. The cuisine is heavily influenced by Indian food.
8. Tourists/ visitors usually stay in Shela while locals live in the old town.

Lamu, the seaside town of dhows & donkeys – Final thoughts

I dreamt about visiting Lamu Island for 3 years before stepping foot in this magical town and shed a tear as the plane landed in my dream location. I may be biased but one visit will never be enough, it’s somewhere that needs at least 10 visits to be experienced. Lamu, you will see me again.